We bought a 25 year old house in May in MA. We had a general contractor do some work (roof, windows, siding, floors, kitchen cabinets). He got 2 permits for that work which he says are “closed”.
In the process of converting our mortgage, the building dept just realized the original owners never completed all their inspections on their building permit (1985), and there is no occupancy permit for this house. They did do some (foundation / insulation / frame / plumbing).

Bldg dept found documents “in the back of the file”. These show the original owners had gotten 3 letters telling them they were in violation of MA state law (1988, 90, 91). The dept must have forgotten about it, since with no occupancy permit our contractor shouldn’t have been able to get permits.

Since they say we are now in violation of MA state law, I paid the fee and we’ll get all the inspections.

Now I’m worried there will be costly code violations!
The general contractor (and others) have noticed things that were done ‘differently’. It looks like the owners might have really done alot of the work themselves. Knowing someone that had been an electrician, he’s pointed out some things that wouldn’t pass 85 code.

For example wiring in the basement goes across beams not along them. Also the general said the deck is too high and code will require a railing. These were all from the original owners (previous owners only here 3 years, and all they did was install a sump pump and french drains).
These things dont seem DANGEROUS so I dont want to pay to fix them. But I’m afraid they’ll find these and other things and it will be costly to fix everything. We already went way over our budget for repairs! The inspector we hired didn’t notice the plywood under all the sideing was rotted (due to original incorrect installation of tyvek / siding / gutters).

So legally, am I responsible for anything they find that hadn’t been done to code? I don’t understand why the building dept is acting irritated with me – I didn’t do anything, and I’m trying to now resolve the problem. It seems like it was their errors that got me into this mess.

In case things get expensive, is there any way the original owners are responsible for this? Or are we just stuck paying to fix anything they did wrong?

NOTE 1: Before anyone says “it’s your responsibility to ensure a house has an occupancy permit”. How would we have done this? The bldg dept WAS asked if there were open permits and they said no.

NOTE 2: We did hire someone to inspect the property prior to purchase. They found many things, but not all. We realized there was a lot of damage to be repaired. We didn’t know the wiring wasn’t done to code or the deck was too high.

NOTE 3: There are no problems YET, but I want to be somewhat prepared and know what to do. This has already caused me to lost my mortgage rate lock, and delay our mortgage conversion. I’ll need to resolve this quickly to get the mortgage settled.

I realize there is risk when you buy a house. I thought we’d already paid for that with the new siding and fixing tons of rot.
But when other people actually violated the law, do we need to pay for that too?

Thanks for any information
We did do the inspection.

Legally the house required an occupancy permit for 25 years. The bldg dept was aware of this (from notices) but ignored it.
They were asked for open permits and incorrectly stated there were none.
Now I must legally do what original owner had to.
The question WAS asked (open permits) and bldg inspection office missed the info “in back of file”.
Who else would we ask?
It is in writing (the “no open permits”) only in the bank-assessors report. I could ask if they got it in writing, but I doubt it. Most likely a phone call.

And really – who do you know who has ever asked to get in writing “no open permits” prior to the purchase of a home.
Nothing was done “on the cheap”. We’ve put 95k into the house already. We didn’t try to save money with a cheap inspection prior to purchase. The house was in need of repairs and wanted to TRY to know what we were getting into. Fully accepted responsibility for the missed rot, etc. An inspector is bound to miss something – and this required ripping off siding to discover.

But being responsible for others having broken the law, seems unfair.
We have every intention of obeying the law (unlike original owners who were state police officers).
Any violations will be fixed – I just fear the price of these. Our budget is already way over.

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Product Description
Basepump is an extremely reliable, very powerful, water powered backup sump pump system. With no battery to wear out or maintain, no charger to plug in or monitor, it is designed as an automatic, independent system from the primary sump pump. Basepump is essentially in a class by itself. Mounted on the ceiling, high above the sump, it doesn’t have to fight the downward force of the water that most pumps must push up vertically. For this reason, it consistently remov… More >>

Basepump HB1000 Water Powered Backup Sump Pump

PROBLEM: I HATE MY BASEMENT
I have owned my tiny row home in the city going on 3 years now. Prior to buying my house was renovated, everything except my basement. My basement has been one of my biggest problems This my first home and I planned on making my basement into a livable space, but my basement is damp and moldy, mushroom are growing from the walls along w/ salt residue, the concrete floor is dusty , deteriorating and rising in some spots. I am 5′3″ and I can touch the beams on the ceiling. the beams has ash or some type of dust residue on it and I think I may have termites. which was treated before brought the house. What should I do?

WHAT I DID ABOUT IT
I got estimates from tons of contractors and waterproofing companies, called terminix back out to inspect and get estimates using so called warranty. Warranty didn’t transfer, fees from contractor where over budget.

MAJOR DIY MOMENT
I went to the city to get a permit on digging out my basement and they said I need to get the ok from a structural engineer. The structural engineer told me to dig 2″x2″ along the wall of the property and find the bottom of the last boulder and that is where I would measure from. I broke up the concrete which was easier than I thought. Next is the digging about 18″ down the entire room, adding the termite treatment (which I can buy from the local exterminator)adding a drainage system around perimeter, and sump pump .Adding 4″ of gravel and 4″ of concrete. and parge the walls, framing out basement adding installation and vapor barrier.

QUESTIONS
How do I remove the old piping underground? before I cement the floor should I think about adding a drain in the floor for a bathroom in the future? How do I make my basement a livable space with little money?

EXPERIENCE
I worked w/ Habitat for Humanities , watch alot of HGTV. and my dad is a electrical contractor.

<<<<<<<<<<< ANY ADVICE WOULD HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2 days ago – 6 days left to answer.

I presently have oil heat in my home and have been told that fuel oil can be used to power the generator instead having to get bottled gas installed. Is this true?

I figure if I am going to do this, I’d like to power the entire household: furnace, sump pump, well pump, refrigerator, stove and lights. What is the price range for such a set up? Typically, is there a percentage paid up front and if so, how much? Can one contractor install the entire system: pad, generator, switch board, etc.? Am I better off buying the hardware and then just hire a contractor to perform the installation? If the contractor supplies the hardware, what is the typical mark-up, if any?

What is the best way to determine that the contractor is reputable and knows what they’re doing?

Due to 9″ of rain falling in 4 hrs., my sump pump and backup failed. I am looking for ‘insurance’ that it won’t happen again. I think the backup pump discharge outside. Has anyone used a water-powered backup pump in severe conditions? If not, what kind of “regular” backup pump do you recommend?

Product Description
Protect Your Basement from Flooding Provides both primary and backup pumping capabili…… More >>

Basement Watchdog 1/3 HP Combination Primary and Backup Sump Pumps w/ Battery and Acid – SPD-DFK-961KIT

This drain services the utility sink, washing machine and air conditioner, so plugging it is probably not the best thing to do….Unless there’s a way around that. Whenever it rains hard & long, the basement floods *through the drain*. There is no sump pump, and installation of one is an option, but how would that have any effect at all on the drain? Thanks!
FYI, all utilities are city (no septic), and there is a stream along the back edge of the property that tends to get backed up (due to city negligence).

I have been getting rain water in my basement when there is heavy rain. I want to install a sump pump. my question is do i have to lay the channels that lead to my pump around the entire basement perimeter. I live in a row home that has only two walls that are not shared with a neighbor. I believe that along these walls that is where the water comes in from the out side. So will i have dig a channel along these walls and have them pitch towards the pump? and any info on installation such as depth of the actual channels and water proofing for them

Just purchased a home with a sump pump with a backup pump. The backup pump brand is “Ace in the Hole”. The battery is in a thick plastic case and is plugged into the wall. There is a test button on the case, however, when I press that button, absolutely nothing happens. No noise, no lights light up, nothing. Everything appears to be connected correctly, but I just can’t figure out the issue. Is it maybe a dead battery? But wouldn’t the AC power still give me some kind of light on the unit telling me the battery is dead? The regular pump functions perfectly and I haven’t had the need for the backup pump yet. But when I do, I would like it to be functional. Any ideas?

Sump pumps are used to expel water in dwelling basements where water can accumulate under several conditions. To date, there are two typical systems that sense the levels of water in the sump pump recess that operates the pump.

The first is of a primitive nature (but the most reliable) that incorporates a “float” riding on top of the water surface. When the “float” achieves a pre-determined critical upper level height, a ball inside the float rolls into two contacts supplying power to the pump motor. As the water is discharged from the sump pump recess, the “float” descends with the level of the water, and when it reaches a critical lower level height, the ball rolls away from the electrical contacts and the pump ceases to operate.

The second system involves a pressure switch mounted at the base of the sump pump assembly and serves the same purpose as our “floating” switch.

Recently hired by the Sump Pump and Jump Company LLC, you have been assigned the task of designing the control logic for their flagship product – of course – a Sump Pump. Upon creating the design you find out some interesting facts:

The “Jump” part of the company name was adopted to reflect the predictable electrical shock experienced by previous company service personnel while engaged in the installation process of the product.
The Sump Pump as three inputs, one of which serves as an output as well.
The Sump Pump is to operate as follows: The recess in which the sump pump is positioned has two water level sensors, one for the low level, the other for a high level. Water in the recess is expelled when the pump motor is “ON” caused by the opening of the “LOW” and “HIGH” sensors. The motor can only be switched “OFF” by the closure of the lower sensor.
Testing the control circuit starts with both level sensors being closed, i.e. a logic zero or “LOW”. While the water begins to rise in the of the sump pump recess, the lower sensor (S1) is covered with water which “OPENS” the sensor and the logic state transists from a “LOW” to a “HIGH”. The LED which represents the pump motor remains OFF. After some time allowing for the buildup of water in the pump recess, the high level sensor (S2) is covered with water which “OPENS” the sensor and the logic state transists from a “LOW” to a “HIGH”. This causes the pump motor to turn on. As the water level begins to fall, closing or opening the high level sensor has no effect on the motor and continues to pump water out until such time that the low level sensor closes again or goes “LOW”

which then and only then turns off the motor.

Inputs Output Action
HIGH LOW MOTOR MOTOR
0 0 0 1 Motor is “ON”, turn Motor “OFF”
0 0 1 1 Motor is “OFF”, leave it “OFF”
0 1 0 0 Motor is “ON”, leave it “ON”
0 1 1 1 Motor is “OFF”, leave it “OFF”
1 0 0 0 Sensor error, turn Motor “OFF”
1 0 1 0 Sensor error, turn Motor “OFF”
1 1 0 0 Sensors are covered, Motor is “ON”, leave it “ON”
1 1 1 0 Sensors covered, turn Motor is “OFF”, turn it “ON”

From the truth table on the previous page, we can construct the logic necessary for implementation using Boolean techniques.

1 1
0 1
0 0
0 0

C C

A B

A B = ( A * B) + (A * C)

A B

A = HIGH switch

B = LOW switch

C = Motor Output

A B

The following schematic demonstrates the logic and wiring required for the

LOGICAL SUMP PUMP

For your grade, you are to explain via text and attached to an e-mail in detail the COMPLETE OPERATIONS of the Logical Sump Pump

To start, determine the output of the sump pump motor for its initial conditions i.e.

The water level is below the LOW switch
Both HIGH and LOW switches are LOW or “CLOSED”